Stockholm

Stockholm is arguably the most beautiful capital city in Europe. Spread across fourteen islands at the point where freshwater Lake Mälaren meets the salt water of the Baltic, its medieval core rises on its own island, surrounded by water on all sides, while the rest of the city radiates outward in waves of elegant 19th-century boulevards, leafy residential neighbourhoods, and a 30,000-island archipelago that stretches east to the open sea.

Gamla Stan: Stockholm's Medieval Heart

Gamla Stan — the Old Town — is one of the best-preserved medieval city centres in the world. Its narrow cobbled lanes, ochre and terracotta facades, and the commanding bulk of the Royal Palace make for a walking experience unlike anywhere else in Scandinavia. The Stortorget square, the Nobel Museum, and the atmospheric alleyways of Mårten Trotzigs gränd reward leisurely exploration. Stay in one of the boutique hotels built into the 17th-century merchant houses for a supremely atmospheric base.

• Visit the Royal Palace and watch the changing of the guard in the outer courtyard
• Explore the Nobel Museum on Stortorget square
• Walk the narrow alley of Mårten Trotzigs gränd, just 90 centimetres wide
• Browse the antique and design shops on Österlånggatan

The Vasa Museum: A World Wonder

The Vasa Museum on the island of Djurgården houses one of the world's most astonishing artefacts: the warship Vasa, which sank on her maiden voyage in 1628 and was raised almost perfectly intact from Stockholm harbour in 1961. The vast wooden hulk, dark with age but covered in ornate carved figures, is presented in a specially built museum and must be counted among the most remarkable museum experiences in the world. Plan to spend at least two hours here.

Archipelago Life

Stockholm's archipelago — 30,000 islands, islets, and skerries — is the city's great secret and its greatest luxury. In summer, Stockholmers escape the city by boat to islands where time moves differently: swimming from granite rocks, picking wild berries, eating crayfish at candlelit tables on wooden jetties. Chartering a private sailing boat for a day or a week among the outer islands is one of the finest travel experiences in Europe. The islands of Grinda, Sandhamn, and Utö each offer character and exceptional accommodation.

Scandinavian Design and Museum Culture

Stockholm is a city that takes culture seriously. The Fotografiska gallery in Södermalm is one of the world's leading photography museums, housed in a converted customs house with a rooftop restaurant that commands extraordinary views. The Moderna Museet holds one of Europe's finest collections of 20th-century art. And for those interested in Swedish design history, the Nationalmuseum's decorative arts collection is essential. The Östermalm neighbourhood is the address of choice for flagship design and fashion boutiques.

• Dine at Fotografiska's rooftop restaurant as the sun sets over the water
• Visit the ABBA Museum on Djurgården — more moving and more fun than you expect
• Explore Östermalm's food hall, Saluhall, for the finest Swedish delicacies
• Take the ferry to Djurgården — Stockholm's green island of museums and royal gardens

Practical Considerations

Stockholm Arlanda Airport is served by all major European carriers and several transatlantic routes. The Arlanda Express train connects to the city centre in 20 minutes. Stockholm's public transport network is world-class, but the most pleasurable way to move between the islands is by the city's ferry network, which doubles as a sightseeing experience. June through August offers long, luminous days and the full archipelago experience; May and September are quieter and equally beautiful.